hardware:3dprinters
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| hardware:3dprinters [2019/01/16 08:10] – [Ultimaker 2-Extended] pmania | hardware:3dprinters [2019/02/07 14:22] (current) – [Ultimaker 2] amaldo | ||
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| For the Prusa i3 MK3, it's recommended to use Slic3r. The right version of Slic3r can be downloaded from the Prusa Website. It comes with all necessary settings so you don’t have to set up anything. | For the Prusa i3 MK3, it's recommended to use Slic3r. The right version of Slic3r can be downloaded from the Prusa Website. It comes with all necessary settings so you don’t have to set up anything. | ||
| - | If you want to print an object, please contact Alexis. | + | If you want to print an object, please contact Alexis |
| ===== Ultimaker 2 ===== | ===== Ultimaker 2 ===== | ||
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| Installed updates: | Installed updates: | ||
| - | * Olsson block: Not an actual Olsson block, but a newer improved version made by 3Dsolex (Norway): [[http:// | + | * Original |
| - | * Extruder: [[http:// | + | |
| - | * Feeder exchanged by the [[https:// | + | |
| - | * MK8 gear feeder. This replaces the knurled feeder gear from the original Ultimaker feeder. More info [[http:// | + | |
| * 3dSolex 35W block heater | * 3dSolex 35W block heater | ||
| + | * [[https:// | ||
| * 3dSolex pt100 temperature sensor (the original one broke while taking it out of the original block) | * 3dSolex pt100 temperature sensor (the original one broke while taking it out of the original block) | ||
| - | * Fan shroud: [[https:// | + | * Fan shroud: [[https:// |
| * Low friction Spool holder. [[https:// | * Low friction Spool holder. [[https:// | ||
| * Firmware: TinkerGnome V17.10.1 | * Firmware: TinkerGnome V17.10.1 | ||
| - | * Current of E Axis motor was increased | + | * Current of E Axis motor was decreased |
| * Last good z-offset to buildplate: 19.15mm (with this height the first layer is 0.3mm +-0.02 and the feeder does not miss steps while extruding the first layer, close to perfect). This height will change if the extruder tip is changed or the springs under the heated bed are adjusted. | * Last good z-offset to buildplate: 19.15mm (with this height the first layer is 0.3mm +-0.02 and the feeder does not miss steps while extruding the first layer, close to perfect). This height will change if the extruder tip is changed or the springs under the heated bed are adjusted. | ||
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| * Olsson block: The original Olsson block for 2.85mm diameter filament (same one as in the UM2+) | * Olsson block: The original Olsson block for 2.85mm diameter filament (same one as in the UM2+) | ||
| * Extruder: 0.4mm brass extruder. Exchangeable for other sizes. | * Extruder: 0.4mm brass extruder. Exchangeable for other sizes. | ||
| - | * Feeder exchanged by the [[https:// | + | * [[https:// |
| - | * MK8 gear feeder. This replaces the knurled feeder gear from the original Ultimaker feeder. More info [[http:// | + | |
| * block heather: Original 25W heater. (A new 3dSolex 35W block heater could be installed). | * block heather: Original 25W heater. (A new 3dSolex 35W block heater could be installed). | ||
| * 3dSolex pt100 temperature sensor (the original one broke while taking it out of the original block) | * 3dSolex pt100 temperature sensor (the original one broke while taking it out of the original block) | ||
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| * Low friction Spool holder. [[https:// | * Low friction Spool holder. [[https:// | ||
| * Firmware: TinkerGnome V17.10.1 | * Firmware: TinkerGnome V17.10.1 | ||
| - | * Current of E Axis motor was increased | + | * Current of E Axis motor was decreased |
| * Fix: The Printer reported often an error on the temperature sensor of the heatbed. The cable connector on the heatbed was not soldered properly from the factory, making the pins have an intermittent connection. Alexis soldered them again and it got rid of the errors. | * Fix: The Printer reported often an error on the temperature sensor of the heatbed. The cable connector on the heatbed was not soldered properly from the factory, making the pins have an intermittent connection. Alexis soldered them again and it got rid of the errors. | ||
| * Door: official transparent front door. | * Door: official transparent front door. | ||
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| * If you carry the printer around, execute „Calibrate Z“. The bed calibration is done every time before printing, so it isn’t necessary to do this manually. | * If you carry the printer around, execute „Calibrate Z“. The bed calibration is done every time before printing, so it isn’t necessary to do this manually. | ||
| - | * You can print (amongst others) PLA and PETG well with this printer. Using PETG might be interesting to print transparent | + | * You can print (amongst others) PLA and PETG well with this printer. Using PETG might be interesting to print transparent or more flexible objects, but it suffers a bit from stringing while printing. |
| - | or more flexible objects, but it suffers a bit from stringing while printing. | + | |
| * If your print stops and the displays says something like „Unloading filament“, | * If your print stops and the displays says something like „Unloading filament“, | ||
| ====== Info on components ====== | ====== Info on components ====== | ||
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| ===== General tips/advice for materials ===== | ===== General tips/advice for materials ===== | ||
| - | * When you heatbed adhesion is too low with PLA, try to clean the heatbed with Isoprop Alcohol. | + | * When your heatbed adhesion is too low with PLA, try to clean the heatbed with Isoprop Alcohol. |
| - | * When you print PETG it’s advised to NOT clean the heatbed with Alcohol, as this might increase adhesion too much. PETG does stick very well to the heatbed. Important: It is recommended to you use some window cleaner to clean the surface which is good enough for cleaning the heatbed while keeping the adhesion low enough. | + | * When you print PETG it’s advised to NOT clean the heatbed with Alcohol, as this might increase adhesion too much. PETG does stick very well to the heatbed. Important: It is recommended to use some window cleaner to clean the surface which is good enough for cleaning the heatbed while keeping the adhesion low enough. This was noted in the manual for the Prusa. |
| * To get a more transparent print when using transparent PETG, you can try to increase the extrusion rate by 5-10%. This will fuse the material a bit more tightly together, reducing the amount of little gaps that might hinder the light to shine through your print easily. | * To get a more transparent print when using transparent PETG, you can try to increase the extrusion rate by 5-10%. This will fuse the material a bit more tightly together, reducing the amount of little gaps that might hinder the light to shine through your print easily. | ||
| ====== Material wishlist ====== | ====== Material wishlist ====== | ||
hardware/3dprinters.1547626255.txt.gz · Last modified: 2019/01/16 08:10 by pmania